Before we migrate north to Switzerland, another stop in Torino!
Allora, il Lingotto: the original FIAT factory in Turin, in its present incarnation as mall/conference center/art museum and, oh yes, dental school. Located on the southern side of the city, this enormous structure has two especially notable features: an automobile test track that loops around the roof, and a funny chunk of metal hovering above — the aforementioned museum, housing the small but stunning collection of the Agnellis, a.k.a. famiglia FIAT. (Why, yes; you can thank Renzo Piano. How did you guess.)
When it opened in 1923, the Lingotto was the largest car factory in the world. It was decommissioned in the early 1980s, when FIAT moved its factory further south, to an even more modern structure. I saved this for last, but it was a highlight of my November trip. We strolled up the spiral ramps, away from the shopping mall and up to several unused floors. (Or, rather, favorite teen hangout spots, judging from the graffiti.) In one of the images below, #6464, you can see the slanted ceiling that is supporting the track above.
The entrance to the museum and test track are through the center of the mall, via a gift shop full of FIAT memorabilia. Two narrow passageways connect to the Piano structure — probably a strategy to prevent a heist or something; no way anyone could hurry off with one of their Canalettos via the tight staircase and elevator.
By the way, if you’re curious to see the track in action, that is, with cars rather than pedestrians, check out the ridiculous Michael Caine vehicle (pun intended) The Italian Job (1969), almost entirely shot in Turin. Added bonus: weird, swinging-London score by Quincy Jones.
